Quality catfish is easy to recognize. Fresh catfish never smells fishy; it smells fresh, like clean river water. The eyes should appear bright and clear, almost alive. The gills should be clean; be sure to remove the skin before cooking. Fresh catfish flesh will give slightly when you press it with a finger, then spring back into shape. When choosing catfish steaks or fillets, whether they’re fresh or previously frozen, look for moist, translucent (never dried out) flesh.